19-22 Feb 2022: 29Palms/Joshua Tree

We left Anza-Borrego on such a high note, seeing & photographing Bighorn Sheep. I felt less enthusiastic moving on to Joshua Tree. Last time we camped there in Feb 2021 was such a short visit, we wanted to see more of the National Park. After the excitement of successful wildlife photography, landscape photography seemed less interesting to me. But if anyplace can get a person excited about the landscape, it’s Joshua Tree.
Unfortunately, all the campgrounds in Joshua Tree were booked and we did not feel like chancing one of the ‘first-come first-serve’ no-reservation campsites on a long President’s Day weekend.
Fortunately, we were able to reserve a full-hookup campsite at Twentynine Palms RV Resort. After dry-camping for 4-days in Anza-Borrego, we missed having full hookups. Twentynine Palms RV Resort is a few miles from the north entrance to Joshua Tree NP. So it’s a great option when campsites are unavailable inside the park. Yucca Valley, 15mi west near the main park entrance, also has RV campgrounds but these were all booked for the dates we needed.

An interesting side-note: in the evening at this RV Resort dozens of turkey vultures soar above the golf course next door. They eventually settle for the night into the tall trees that stand between the campground and the golf course. Tom, a resort regular, told me they can number in the hundreds at times and return every year to roost in these tall trees which are unusual for the area.

30 Sept 2021 – Leaving Zion

Zion Canyon RV Resort cleared out Tuesday & Wednesday so if you are trying to get a spot. Your chances on these days are better than nearer to the weekend. Yesterday’s hike to Angel’s Landing was less crowded on the shuttle than Monday when we hiked the Narrows. We considered e-biking early today but settled for packing up and getting on the road back south. This time we reserved a site at the Barstow-Yermo KOA instead of Baker.

29 Sept 2021 – Angel’s Landing

The 2nd most popular hike, or tied at #1 with the Narrows, is Angel’s Landing. A hard, out-n-back 4.4mi hike that changes elevations ~1600ft. The trail is one of the busiest and the main reason it’s so dangerous at the summit. A lot of people of various skill & physical ability on a narrow, vertical, cliff-sided ridge climbing in both directions. Hikers will step aside as groups take turn going up or down but there isn’t a large margin for error. Because there were so many people, the time to go 0.5mi from Scout Lookout to Angel’s Landing was an hour 20min. We decided Scout Lookout was an adequate end point. The weather was great for our hike but the climb will definitely challenge your stamina. The first 1.2mi of the hike are uphill but when you reach the West Rim Trail, it flattens into a shaded level trail. Then you hit Walter’s Wiggles, a set of 21 quick switchbacks that takes you vertically 200+ft in a really short time. Once past the switchbacks, it’s a gradual climb to Scout Lookout, ~5340ft at 1.8mi. You can continue to the summit 2.2mi further along but we stopped here.

Angel’s Landing Trail & Elevation Change

28 Sept 2021 – The Narrows

At the top of every Zion visitor’s list of places to hike is the Narrows. A river hike in the Virgin River through Zion Canyon. With its popularity, this can be a crowded ‘trail’ so we got an early start. But not as early as originally planned since morning temperatures were mid 50s. We layered our clothes so as the day warmed & we started hiking, we could be comfortable. We caught the Springdale shuttle at 8am and entered the park by walking over the bridge to the pedestrian entrance.
The Zion Canyon morning shuttle was already getting full, standing room only. So we waited for the next shuttle to get seats since the ride to the Temple of Sinawava takes awhile, making several stops along the way. Temple of Sinawava is the last shuttle stop & the Narrows trailhead. The 1mi Riverside Walk is a level, paved scenic path to get to the Narrows starting point. There are no restrooms beyond the shuttle stop so it is highly recommended to take the time here.
Since autumn conditions were underway & the river is cooling down, we rented gear from Zion Outfitters ($31/person). This includes a sturdy walking staff, neoprene socks, & water boots with great ankle support (highly recommended). Since you can warm up hiking, although cooled by river-wading, most people wear layers & shorts. I fortunately picked water repellent Eddie Bauer long pants and was surprised they shedded water so well. Carol had similar pants but they did not have the same water resistance.
The hike is amazing and we can see why its at the top of every hiker’s list. You crisscross the river through the canyon and enjoy the spectacular views of the river, canyon, and cliffs. The river depth ranged from ankle to waist-deep. We hiked ~2.5mi into the canyon, turning around near Wall Street. In hindsight, even though I felt I had experienced the Narrows, we should have continued further up. Our Narrows hike did end up totaling 8 miles. But take a break, rest, and go further is my recommendation.

27 Sept 2021 – Zion Canyon RV Resort

Although visiting Zion National Park is only a 25min drive from St. George or Hurricane campgrounds. If you can stay closer, it’s easier to get an early start. In late September, afternoon temperatures are in the high 80s low 90s so morning excursions are recommended.
We were lucky to book 3 nights in Zion Canyon RV Resort in Springdale, 0.4mi from Zion NP south entrance. This is a private campground with full hookups, unlike more primitive campsites inside the park. Since we postponed our original dates by one week, because it was over 100°F, a riverside site was available. Definitely worth the extra expense if you can book a site next to river. But the riverside sites are smaller and back-in only, unlike the many pull-thru sites at this campground. Howie’s only 20ft so we backed in & really enjoyed the view from the rear dinette, Howie’s best feature.
Zion National Park Visitor Center, Zion Canyon RV Resort, and other places on the Virgin River were heavily damaged by a flash flood on Jun 29 2021. Most of the damage has been repaired but cleanup continued and there was a lot of construction going on. The main lodge that used to greet people at Zion Canyon RV Resort was gone and new construction underway. The offices are housed temporarily in small office trailers.
Since it took less than an hour to move from the Hurricane KOA here. We unfolded our two Lectric E-Bikes and rode into the park. Having an America the Beautiful Park Lifetime Pass makes coming and going simple & free, bypassing the regular line. We rode the Pa’rus Trail which runs along the Virgin River, through the South Campground into Zion Canyon.

25 Sept 2021 – South Taylor Creek Trail

After hiking Middle Taylor Creek Trail yesterday, we drove into Leeds for lunch and came back for the Kolob Canyon scenic drive. If you are tired of hiking or not a hiker, this is a great scenic drive with pullouts/parking lots with spectacular views.
Park volunteer John had described how to find the South Fork Taylor Creek Trail yesterday since it’s unmarked and not on the map. It’s not an easy trail to find but fortunately, we identified the trailhead after stopping to take photographs during one stop. This trail is not maintained, and it’s narrow and shrub covered in many places. The relatively few hikers that take this trail help keep it somewhat clear. The change is elevation starts right away, first dropping then climbing continuously till you hit the flat canyon floor ‘plateau’ 1mi in. The first mile is mostly unshaded on uneven ground, tracking along the hillside. But once you make it to the plateau, the trail levels out and follows along the smooth south cliff face. The trail ended for us in a slot canyon about 6ft wide. You can continue but it requires some agile bouldering over the large rocks blocking the canyon. I enjoyed this hike more than the Middle Taylor Creek Trail but Carol preferred yesterday’s hike because of the Double Alcove ‘reward’ at the end. This is a harder hike, with very few people – it made us nervous at first, wondering if we’d happen upon ‘wildlife’. From a photographic perspective, once the trail plateaued, the canyon offered a lot of scenery. That may be why I liked this hike more than yesterday’s, plus being able to touch the cliff wall. There were a few more hikers further in who got an earlier start than us. Plus rock climbers at a fascinating section of the cliff face where there were eroded sandstone ‘ladders’. I can see why this would be a popular rock climber destination. The trail ended in a boxed slot canyon, somewhat anti-climatic compared to the Double Alcove. But the hike against the cliff itself was pretty spectacular even when compared to Zion Canyon hikes.

24 Sept 2021 – Middle Taylor Creek Trail

One of the best trails to hike in Zion’s Kolob Canyon is Middle Fork Taylor Creek Trail. It’s a 5mi (total) out and back trail that’s 2 miles from the visitor center (1st parking lot on the left). It features a river/creek (depending on the season) and is rated as moderate. The trail is accessible year-round and most people hike 2.5mi to the Double Alcove. The beginning of the hike is open (unshaded) with a gradual increase in elevation and great views of the surrounding shear peaks. Further along the trail, you hike between the cliff faces shaded, following a dry river bed. It’s a fairly wide canyon so this is not slot canyon hiking. You do not get surrounded by rock faces like other hiking trails or have flash flooding concerns. Hiking 2.5mi in has a 590ft elevation gain, till you reach the Double Alcove. This is a great spot for photos and lunch. It was not crowded (~8 people) when we were there since we got an early start (when it was cooler). But as we were walking back around noon, there were more people on the trail heading in. Still, this area is significantly less crowded than the trails in Zion Canyon. We bumped into park volunteer John on the trail & he mentioned the lesser known South Fork Trail. He said it was an even better hike since you hike against the cliff and it narrows into a slot canyon. It’s shorter (3mi total) & more challenging, with 1070ft elevation gain on a less maintained trail. We’ll do that tomorrow.

Trail Map

Indio “Glamping”+Joshua Tree Day Trip

For our third trip of 2021, we wanted to visit family in Desert Hot Springs & Indio Mar 14-18th. Shadow Hills RV Resort in Indio, CA was a great location to stay since it’s less than a mile from family. This RV park has all the amenities allowed by Covid-19 restrictions.
Fortunately we arrived Sunday because Monday the winds were fierce – blowing steady 35mph with gusts to 60+. By Tuesday morning the winds has dropped & weather warm & beautiful.

Full hookups, cable tv, laundry, pool, dog parks (tiny fenced areas), daily trash pickup at each site, showers and restrooms scattered throughout the park. The RV sites are level, wide concrete slabs with hedges separating you from your nearest neighbor. Being close to Coachella (annual music festival, canceled this year), there are many tent sites which were unoccupied.

Indio is ~40mins from Joshua Tree’s Cottonwood Springs Road south entrance. So after visiting family, I did an afternoon excursion to Joshua Tree. The topography of the southern entrance is quite different from the northern 29 Palms entrance. Most of the rock formation points-of-interest are in the northern side of the park. The Ocatillo Patch and Cholla Cactus Gardens features are in the central valley so I focused my photography efforts there. The 40mi drive to the Cottonwood Springs entrance has a much longer incline that the 29 Palms. If I were towing our trailer, I would definitely use the 29 Palms entrance.

Desert X 2021 Art Festival was also underway with 9 environmental art installations. The number of installations is greatly reduced this year due to Covid-19 but still worthwhile. The weather in March is near perfect (~70degF) except for the occasional wind storm like a day ago. The short hikes to the various installations, which are scattered throughout the area, were pretty easy. Although ParaPivot is quite a steep climb up a winding concrete driveway. We went on Wednesday so no tickets were required. Thurs-Sun tickets are required to keep the crowds down.
We saw 4 of the 9 installations. We were trying to find the fifth, The Art of Taming Horses, which ended up being a scavenger hunt without success. Turns out the installation will not be viewable until after April 9th. The Women’s Qualities installation is in the Sunnylands Center & Gardens which closes at 4pm so we missed it by 20mins. Check the Desert X website for ticket & exhibit information: https://desertx.org. You can download the DesertX app for detailed descriptions about the art & artists plus locations.