08 Oct 2022: Barstow/Yermo KOA

There aren’t many good stopping point midway between Utah & Oceanside if you want to overnight in a RV Park. For our two-day drive home we wanted to have an early arrival day 2 (Oct 9th) so that meant driving longer day 1 (Oct 8th). If we stopped again at Thousand Trails Las Vegas, our day 2 drive would be 6 or more hours. So we stopped in Las Vegas just to fuel and have lunch, then continued to Barstow. I thought stopping at the north Las Vegas Maverik gas station truck stop would be easy but it wasn’t. Because of road construction, the exit detour takes you away from the gas station, so a u-turn is required. Fueling there wasn’t easy either since all the truck pumps were diesel. Non-diesel RVs fuel at the auto pumps which is fine but required us circle back around.
When we drove home from Utah in 2021, we stayed at the Barstow/Yermo KOA. It’s a good stopping point about 6hrs from Utah. So we booked a pull-thru hookup site with electric & water for one night. We’ve stayed at other KOAs and this one is pretty drab when compared to the others like Monterey/Santa Cruz KOA. But the site assigned to us this time was a lot nicer than last year’s, with trees and closer, cleaner restrooms.

There are other options if you don’t mind boondocking but with the +90° weather, we like having an electric hookup to run the A/C.
The Flying J Travel Center in Barstow or Peggy Sue’s diner parking lot in Yermo are free & pretty safe but noisy. You can also find BLM land along the 15 but we prefer to stay where we are more comfortable. Another affordable ($25 full-hookups) option is stopping at Clark’s Mobile Home & RV Park in Baker. We stop there last year on our way to Utah. It’s essentially a parking lot just off the 15 in Baker with full hookups but no other amenities. There is a market and a few restaurants nearby.

07 Oct 2022: Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park

About 20 miles from Kanab is the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park. According to the State Park website, these 10,000-15,000 year old sand dunes are created by three things: sand, high winds, and a notch between the Moquith and Moccasin mountains, that causes the dune formation. The eroding Navajo sandstone gives the sand dunes their ‘coral pink’ hue.


The park is popular with ATV/OHV vehicles and has campsites for visitors who want to stay overnight. Many people, like us, come to sled or sand-board down the dunes. There’s a $10 state park day-use fee and sand-board/sled rentals are $25 for all-day. With the sled, the Ranger will give you a small block of wax and instructions on how to apply it to the underside of the board. They also explain the best technique to successfully ride the sled down the dunes. Properly applying the wax to the bottom of the board greatly affects the speed downhill.
For $5, you can get a permit to fly your drone in the park – one of the few State Parks I’ve visited that allows this. I brought my drone so after sledding, I flew it over the park (video below).

Coral Sand Dunes State Park (drone footage; slow to play)

Most visitors come to sand-board or sled down the dunes. There are several smaller dunes but everyone seemed to pick the largest dune to ride. We started lower then moved higher as we got the hang of it and got braver. You can have some great, fast runs if you start high on the right slope angle. But climbing back up in the soft sand is an exhausting workout. The higher you start, the longer the climb back up. After a few runs, we were done.

Carol’s Best Run (slow to download & play)

In the afternoon, the wind can start blowing so be prepared for everything, including you, to be covered with the fine, red sand. Bring sunscreen, water and snacks with you cause once you hike out to the dunes. You will not want to trudge back to the picnic area or parking lot unless absolutely necessary.
We had a great time and highly recommend spending a couple hours here especially if you have kids.
One tip – a couple was having a terrible time sledding successfully down the dune. They tried all the tips & suggested techniques but their sled would turn sideways and catch-an-edge after several feet. Since we were done, we offered them our board and, like us, it worked fine for them. Applying wax to the underside of theirs wasn’t working because it was so heavily scratched/gouged. So when you rent, be sure to check out the underside of your sled and ask for a smoother one if it looks rough. Ours had gouges but not nearly as many as theirs. These sleds look like they’ve been around a long time and the undersides surely shows their age.
They log the board number when you rent so you’ll want to return the same board. When the couple were done with ours, we got it back to return. I do not know the park’s policy if you swap boards with somebody & return a different number.

06 Oct 2022: Grand Canyon North Rim

The North Rim of the Grand Canyon is 8000ft. It’s much cooler, heavily forested, and more rustic than the south rim. Most of the facilities, like the lodge, close by mid-October or at first snowfall. The North Rim is lesser-visited than its Southern counterpart. So less crowded, except at the lodge, which is the main destination for visitors. We were treated to wonderful fall colors and deer during the 80mi drive from Kanab.

We had a great morning exploring the trails & viewpoints along the north rim. Then we enjoyed a panoramic canyon view during lunch at the lodge restaurant. We wanted to see more and taking advice from our campground neighbor familiar with the North Rim. We drove the Cape Royal Road to access the many viewpoints along the canyon.


There was very little traffic on this long winding back-road that takes you east through dense forest then south along the canyon. The viewpoints by the lodge were wonderful but these other viewpoints are even better. For example, at Angels Window, you can walk out to the viewpoint for an unobstructed 260° panoramic view of the canyon from east to west.
After missing a spectacular sunset at Bryce Canyon, I had to stay & photograph sunset. Intermittent rain squalls were creating dramatic light so I knew it would be special. Photographing a Grand Canyon sunset at Cape Royal/Angels Window viewpoint is ideal. There were so many angles catching the changing light along the canyon from this location. The atmospheric conditions with intermittent cloud bursts over that canyon created haze and rainbows. As hoped, the sun broke through with amazing light, striking the canyon valley, pinnacles, and back-lighting the trees along the rim.


The only drawback of staying till dark was the slow nervous 2hr drive back to Kanab, trying not to hit deer or other wildlife. Arizona does not recognize Daylight Savings Time so by the clock, it took 3hrs to get back. We stopped at the Jacob Lake Inn for a break & wonderful, home-style dinner before driving a more relaxed hour back to Kanab.

05 Oct 2022: Sand Caves

When searching for things to do in Kanab, the Sand Caves just north of town are a popular stop. This feature is close to the road as you drive into town from the north. It’s a short easy hike that becomes moderate because it requires scrambling up angular sandstone slabs ~100ft.

Sand Caves

It is an easy-access location that’s not part of a state or national park so very busy. The amazing detail of the sandstone walls are partially obscured by the etched graffiti defacing this man-made wonder. But this is a great short hike that doesn’t take long and is worthwhile. It rained lightly while we were there which made the scramble down tricky. The loose sand-covered slab becomes even slicker when wet.

05-08 Oct 2022: Kanab Utah

After all the hikes and scenic drives at Zion & Bryce Canyon, by the time we arrived at Kanab, we were tired. So we shortened our 4 night stay at Kanab RV Corral to 3 nights. It’s a RV campground with full hookups on the south end of town. Close to everything, practical, affordable but not scenic.

Kanab is a great base-camp to explore southern Utah and northern Arizona. We were hoping to hike the Wave but did not win a permit in the online lottery. The Wave Lottery has changed from ‘in-person next-day permit’ lottery at the Kanab Visitor Center to an online ‘two-days-from-now permit’ lottery at recreation.gov. The details including ‘geofencing’ (ie you have to be in the area when participating) can be found at visitsouthernutah.com and here at BLM.gov.

Sand Caves

Sand Caves

Grand Canyon North Rim

  • Besides the Wave, another excursion we planned was visiting the north rim of the Grand Canyon. It’s about 80mi south of Kanab and a great drive for fall colors in October.

Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park

  • Since we didn’t get the Wave permit, we visited the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park our last day. We rented a sled and had a great time sledding down the huge coral sand dune. The ride down was incredibly fun but the trudge back up was exhausting. This was a great change to our usual routine of finding a trail but still quite a workout.

04 Oct 2022 Bryce: Mossy Cave & Scenic Drive

Bryce Canyon Coffee in Tropic, about 10mi from Ruby’s Inn, was one of the few places serving really good coffee & tea. When we drove there for coffee a few days before, we saw the sign for the Mossy Cave Trail. After looking it up on Alltrails.com, we thought it’d be fun to come back to check out the cave. This trail is part of Bryce Canyon National Park but the trailhead & parking lot are well outside the park entrance.

Mossy Cave Trail

This was a short hike to a rather unimpressive alcove, not cave, which is said to have icicles most of the year – none in October. With bushes obscuring most of the alcove plus being inaccessible behind a rail & fence, seeing Mossy Cave was anti-climatic. Still, it was a beautiful morning & a fun hike, but don’t do it for the Mossy Cave. The hoodoos, ‘window’ pinnacle arches & waterfall make the trail worthwhile and more interesting.


After the hike and lunch, we took the scenic drive through Bryce Canyon, stopping at the main viewpoints beyond Bryce Point. The views of Bryce Canyon amphitheater from Sunrise & Sunset Points are hard to beat. But the rest of Bryce Canyon is worth exploring since the vistas and sediment colors change. The Natural Bridge viewpoint was the definitive highlight, no hiking necessary.

03 Oct 2022: Bryce Canyon Peekaboo Trail

Our second hike was another popular and more challenging trail, Peekaboo Loop. The trailhead starts at Bryce Point (8300ft), higher than either Sunrise or Sunset Points. Peekaboo Trail gets it name from the surprises around every corner on the trail and it lives up to its name. The changes in scenery around every bend are amazing – hoodoos, pinnacles, arches, & vistas.
The trail descends into the canyon ~1400ft and has an upper and lower loop trail. Since we were not planning on looping back, we took the upper trail which, according to other hikers, offers more to see. We did not want to hike back and ascend the 1400ft up to the Bryce Point. We figured hiking up the Navajo Trail switchbacks to the rim would be a steeper but shorter 500ft ascent. If we had started earlier in the day, we would have done the complete 5.2mi Peekaboo loop.

Peekaboo Loop Trail
Peekaboo to Navajo Trail

We started this hike without having lunch and by the time we were back on top, it was 5pm. We brought plenty of water & snacks on the hike but were ready for a meal. We considered dinner at Bryce Lodge but were worried we’d miss the last shuttle (6pm) waiting for service. So we caught the next shuttle from Bryce Lodge to Bryce Point to pick up the truck. Then headed back to Ruby’s Inn Restaurant for an excellent grilled shrimp dinner. Peekaboo Trail was a spectacular hike – the best one we did in Bryce Canyon. The trail takes you next to, through & under many of the features you see from the viewpoints.
If you zoom in on the right side of the 1st photo, you can see people on a viewpoint (Upper Inspiration Viewpoint perhaps).

02 Oct 2022: Bryce Queens Garden to Navajo Loop Trail

Queens Garden to Navajo Loop

Other than trails from one viewpoint to another along the rim, most loop down into the canyon and back. Because of their vertical nature, AllTrails.com accurately rates them moderate. These trails are well-groomed but there can be collapses along the way. So mini-tractors are deployed on some trails to clear the path. Wall Street Trail was closed during out visit due to a massive rock fall. Erosion is what forms these hoodoos so the landscape is constantly changing.
Queens Garden Trail gets it name from an iconic hoodoo that resembles Queen Victoria (see 1st photo). The Navajo Loop has a series of switchbacks which climb 500+ft through some of the tallest fins & hoodoos. Some knowledgeable hikers prefer to start this route at Sunset Point, descending the Navajo Trail switchbacks then ascend the more-gradual Queens Garden Trail. Being unfamiliar with these trails, we chose to hike from Sunrise Point (Queens Garden trailhead) & ascend Sunset Point (Navajo Trail switchbacks). The switchback ascent really isn’t that bad if you take your time.

01 Oct 2022: Bryce Canyon

Bryce canyon is breathtaking – photos cannot do it’s intricate landscapes justice, even with epic light. This was our first visit to Bryce Canyon and it has a similar appeal as the Grand Canyon but is uniquely different. Grand Canyon impresses with it grandeur. Bryce Canyon with thousands of hoodoos and banded-colored sediments forming spectacular landscapes in every direction. It is a landscape photographer’s paradise when the changing light illuminates the infinite subjects. And at 8000ft in October, you can add wonderful fall colors, especially the Aspens, to the mix.

01 Oct 2022: Zion to Bryce Scenic Drive

Ordinarily, our drive from one destination to another doesn’t warrant comment but this one is pretty unique. There are a couple ways to get from Springdale to Bryce Canyon. The shortest is UT-9E through Zion National Park to US-89. But UT-9E is a winding route that has a 1.1mi tunnel with height restrictions. If your RV is taller than 13ft than you have to take one of the alternate routes.
From NPS.Gov: “The Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel – Construction of the 1.1 mile Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel began in the late 1920s and was completed in 1930. At the time that the tunnel was dedicated, on July 4, 1930, it was the longest tunnel of its type in the United States. The Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel (and the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway) provides direct access for travel between Bryce Canyon, Grand Canyon, and Zion National Parks.
Rangers posted at both ends of the tunnel convert two-way tunnel traffic to one-way for larger vehicles, ensuring safe passage. This service, for which a $15 dollar tunnel permit fee is charged, was provided for over 32,832 oversized oversized vehicles in calendar year 2019.
In 2022 large vehicles may only travel through the tunnel daily from:

  • February 27 to March 12 from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m
  • March 13 to April 23 from 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.
  • April 24 to August 27 from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
  • August 28 to September 24 from 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.
  • September 25 to November 5 from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m
  • Starting November 6, winter hours of operations for the tunnel are 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.”

We opted to pay the toll and save ourselves and extra hour of driving using an alternate route. Much of UT-9E through Zion NP is 35mph or slower because of all the 180° curves. There are plenty of turnouts so you can let cars pass if they start to pile-up behind you. There is a second short tunnel on UT-9 inside of Zion NP without any restictions because of better clearance so no toll.
Once out of the park, much of the route is fairly flat and you can tow full-speed. But only a few sections on US-89 have more than two lanes.